Streets upon streets of vibrant, pastel apartments with Romeo and Juliet-esque balconies made up a large part of the area of Valencia we stayed in- Rusaffa. It was lively but not chaotic, with independent restaurants, bars, coffee shops and stores contributing to the buzz. My role as coffee shop finder and selector continued on and we made our way over to the nearby Los Picos, perching on a table outside. The toasties caught our eye, the Cubano in particular was impossible for me to resist after watching them being made in the movie ‘Chef’ (IYKYK!). This one had a Spanish twist with the addition of salty, crispy serrano ham, along with the classic cheese, mustard and, my favourite, the sweet crunchy pickles! It was an instant pick-me-up along with a smooth, creamy flat white and fuelled an afternoon of wandering and getting our bearings of Valencia.
One of the highlights was a free walking tour the next morning with our legendary tour guide, David (must be pronounced the Spanish way- Da-veed 😉). He showed us around the main squares surrounding the beautiful cathedral and told us about the history of the park that runs through the city. It used to be where the river Turia ran but, after major flooding in 1957, it was diverted south of the city. Originally, the land left was going to be turned into a huge highway to Madrid but this idea hugely angered the locals at the time, who wanted a green space instead. And so Park Turia was born, an 8km long space with green areas to relax in as well as walking, running and cycling lines. David showed us actual newspaper inserts from the times during and after the flooding which, as someone who enjoys history, was really cool to see. He also taught us about the culinary side of Valencia- talking about horchata de chufa and paella, possibly the most famous Spanish food which originates here. Horchata de chufa is made by soaking tiger nuts in water and then blending them, creating a creamy drink. If I’m being honest, I wasn’t a fan, but I’m still glad that I tried it! David was very clear about what a paella was and that it traditionally is served with chicken and rabbit- if you see any prawns or mussels that is not a paella! It is actually a seafood rice or is sometimes referred to as ‘arroz negro’ (black rice) because of the squid ink used.
If you’re wanting to get out of the heat for a little bit, I would recommend visiting the science museum and arts centre to admire the wonderful, futuristic architecture and to see what’s inside. The science museum is full of engaging exhibitions that span across different subjects such as space, the moon, genetics and memory. After you’re finished inside you can then relax and have a stroll around the ‘Jardines del Real’ which surround the museum and offer some shady spots to unwind in.
I’m a huge fan of Valencia and it was one of the cities where I could see myself living in the future. There’s a great balance of being close to a city centre that’s lively and spirited whilst also being near to the tranquil coast. I could sense the pride that Valencianos have for the culture and history of their city and I thoroughly enjoyed learning about it. Once again, I’ve listed a few recommendations below and to see some more photos check out my instagram (@ellenseatingexperiences) 😊
Food/coffee:
Los Picos- 8.5/10 coffee, incredible toasties (cubano with Serrano ham and vegano with hummus, tapenade and confit tomatoes)
Docta coffee- cute takeaway coffee place- 8.7/10 coffee
Blackbird- amazing pastries and 8.7/10 coffee. Good brunch/toast selection too.
Mercat Central de Valencia- food market offering large variety deli stalls selling cured meats and cheeses as well as fresh bread and fruit/juices.
Agua de Valencia- this is the name of the drink rather than a specific place. You can get this at any bar and it’s made with orange juice, cava, vodka and gin. Refreshing, tasty and a must-try if you visit!
Attractions:
Park Turia- great for a peaceful walk/run or to enjoy a picnic on the grass
Museu de les Ciències
Jardines de Real
Cathedral (we didn’t go in but well worth appreciating the architecture from the outside)
Serranos Towers- great views of the city and not too big a climb!
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